Q: What can I use to remove old stain from my deck?
A: In order to achieve the beautiful finish you want, you need to begin with a clean, dry surface. Flood's StainStrip® Exterior Stain Stripper can be used to remove even the most stubborn coatings like acrylic or oil-based solid color or semi-transparent stains.
Q: Why should I finish my wood?
A: Some people wonder why wood should be finished at all. After all, some wooden structures have lasted hundreds of years. This is true, but not all wooden structures will last hundreds of years. Weather and the wood itself can develop rot and deteriorate to the point of collapse. Another thing to consider is appearance. If you think natural wood will retain its color, you are wrong. Sunlight turns all woods yellowish or brownish, then gray. After the initial color change and graying, further changes develop slowly. Dark woods eventually become lighter and light woods darker. Damage from sun and water, which gets into the wood and makes it alternately expand and contract as it goes through wetting and drying cycles can lead to surface checks, which can than develop into cracks. Another problem with bare wood is mildew. If left unprotected, mildew will cover a surface, making it look gray or black. The problem is that on the way to a uniform gray or black color – if you like that look – the wood takes on a blotchy look. Overall, mildew is not dangerous but it isn’t visually appealing.
Q: My deck has weathered to gray and I would like to restore the natural wood tone. How do I go about it?
A: Cleaning the deck with Dekswood® will remove dirt and stains from your wood while brightening the gray color back to the natural wood tone. Once the deck has dried, one coat of CWF-UV will enhance the natural beauty of the wood while protecting it from exposure to sun and bad weather.
Q: What is extractive bleeding?
A: Extractive (tannin) bleeding is the washing away of water-soluble color from within your wood. Extractives are most evident in darker-colored wood such as redwood and cedar, but they can be found to some degree in nearly all woods except pressure-treated pine. The two most notable effects of extractive bleeding are fading and nail staining.
Q: Why should I use PowerLift® instead of Dekswood to clean my pressure-treated wood?
A: Both products work very well on pressure-treated wood. Dekswood is a cleaner; PowerLift is a remover. PowerLift should be your choice if a weathered finish is present or if the wood is extremely dirty.
Q: Will Dekswood bring a natural color back to all wood?
A: Yes, except for pressure-treated wood, or if the discoloration is from some treatment or finish used in the past that permanently discolored it. In some cases, you may have to use a stronger solution and allow it to remain on the surface longer. Dekswood will not bring the natural color back to pressure-treated wood because its natural colors were lost when it was treated.
Q: What is the difference between the various categories of stain colors?
A: Exterior stains fall into three basic categories: clear, semi-transparent, and solid color, depending on the percentage of solid pigments or resins present in the mixture. The less pigment in the stain, the more the wood grain shows through. Alternatively, the more pigment in the stain, the more opaque the color.
Q: How do you know if a clear wood finish is good?
A: The best exterior clear wood finishes are high in resin solids and contain UV absorbers and mildewcides. They perform by penetrating into the wood cells and curing to become part of the cell structure. In this way, they become an effective barrier to ultraviolet radiation and moisture attack. The presence of UV absorbers and mildewcides combine to maintain the natural beauty of the wood for a much longer period than water repellents and wood preservatives.
Q: I just built a beautiful new deck, with pressure-treated wood. I am very concerned that I put the right product on my deck right away to protect it. What is the best product to apply now?
A: Although pressure-treated wood resists insects and decay, it's still vulnerable to moisture and sun damage. The same is true for cedar, redwood, and other exterior wood. Left unprotected, all wood will discolor, split and warp. To keep your wood looking new longer, and to protect it while it weathers, treat it with Flood New Wood Defender™ immediately. Exterior wood can shrink and swell several, dramatically increasing the likelihood of splitting, swelling and warping. New Wood Defender protects new wood when it's most affected by the elements -- during the critical first year. That's why it's essential to include treatment with New Wood Defender when you're planning the initial care of your wood. It's important that all wood, whether it's pressure-treated pine, cedar, or redwood, weathers properly before you apply a penetrating oil finish like CWF-UV for long-term protection. During this weathering period, excess water evaporates from the wood, and the mill glaze wears off of smooth wood, allowing the wood fibers to open up. Only after this happens is the wood porous enough to accept a penetrating finishing coat. An immediate application of New Wood Defender to your deck (or siding or fence), provides a slow, steady, weathering period. The movement of moisture into and out of the wood is controlled. In addition, New Wood Defender helps maintain the wood's natural color and keeps it looking new longer.
Q: Looks like there are countless layers of sealers or waxes on my deck. How do I get down to the clean bare wood to start fresh?
A: Old finishes, sealers and dirt can build-up over the years to give your deck a hazy, weather-worn look. Powerlift® Deck Stain & Finish remover is specifically designed to get under and lift off old oil-base finishes, sealers and dirt from your deck. PowerLift restores the natural beauty of your deck while giving you a clean, sound surface for refinishing. A powerful lift-off is essential for a great finish. Most deck cleaners aren't strong enough to remove old, weathered finishes or stain, and strippers can be too harsh and hard to work with. PowerLift is a strong solution that removes unwanted finishes but doesn't harm the wood and is safer to use than most strippers.
Q: What about new wood? Do I still have to clean it? Isn't it already clean?
A: Just because wood is new doesn't make it clean. Lying around in the lumberyard can subject it to a variety of contaminants, including algae, dirt, mildew, tannins, and more.
Q: The cedar fence surrounding my yard was painted with red latex stain. How do I remove this?
A: Siding, decks, railings, or fences -- whatever you're stripping, getting through to the bare wood is critical. StainStrip® Exterior Stain Remover is a powerful formula that makes it easier to lift and remove weathered oil or latex solid-color stains, clear wood finishes, or semi-transparent stains. StainStrip is thick enough to cling to vertical surfaces and strong enough to strip even latex solid-hide stains.
Q: Is there a difference between sealers and stains?
A: Yes, although the terms are often used interchangeably. Often clear or woodtone finishes are called sealers but even that can be confusing. Look for finishes that penetrate into the wood to provide protection from the inside out. Sealers that sit on the surface are prone to wear from the elements and foot traffic. Stains, on the other hand, include semi-transparent and solid color finishes that come in a variety of colors.
Q: How can I prevent mold and mildew?
A: There is no simple answer. Mildew and mold spores occur naturally and will grow on moist, shady wood common on many decks. A bleach and water solution will remove the mold and mildew stains, but, unless conditions change, the mold will return.
Q: If I can't prevent mold, how can I control its growth?
A: Using a penetrating finish that prevents the contact between the wood, moisture and mold spores will reduce mold growth. Also, regular cleaning will prevent mold buildup.
Q: My deck is gray. How do I get it clean?
A: The gray results from the reaction of the sun's UV rays with the wood fibers of the deck. First, clean the deck with an oxalic acid cleaner to remove the gray without damaging the wood. Then, apply a penetrating clear or woodtone finish.
Q: The stain on my deck is worn and peeling. Can I just re-stain it?
A: Unfortunately, the answer is no. The old stain will need to be removed before a new finish can be applied. Look for an outdoor stain remover designed to work with both oil and acrylic finishes. Stripping the deck is not difficult but be sure to follow the label directions closely. Once the deck has been cleaned down to the bare wood, apply the clear, woodtone, semi-transparent or solid color finish of your choice.
Q: I stained my deck last year; do I need to re-stain this year?
A: Probably not. If the finish is sound and there is no sign of wear, you probably only need to clean the deck. Look for an oxalic acid cleaner and follow the label instructions. Your deck will be clean and the color restored without bleaching.
Q: What do I need to do before I can repaint or stain broken or warped wood?
A: If your siding, shingles or shakes are warped, split or broken you need to renail or replace them before applying a finish.
Q: Why is treated lumber called "pressure-treated?"
A: The lumber is inserted into a sealed cylindrical tank about 7 feet in diameter by 60 feet long. The tank is completely filled with a diluted solution of chemical and water, and then pressurized. This pressure forces the chemical into the wood fibers, making it "pressure-treated."
Q: Does the treatment in all treated wood prevent mold and mildew?
A: No. In fact, most treated lumber is not mold and mildew resistant. Some treated material does contain a mold inhibitor. In some stores, lumber will appear to be dirty or even have black spots. That is mold!
Q: Why does some lumber warp before it is used?
A: The treating process restores moisture to the wood. Lumber stored in very dry or sunny conditions will dry too quickly, thus causing warping. For this reason, most material is inventoried outside in covered sheds. Material should be stored outside, out of direct sunlight, until the project is ready.
Q: How do I choose the right stain for my deck?
A: First, ask yourself, what do you want your deck to look like? If you like the natural beauty of wood, look for a clear or woodtone penetrating finish. These finishes enhance wood’s grain and character while providing protection from water and the sun’s UV rays. Expect the finish to last 2-3 years.
If you want to add a touch of color but still want to see the grain of the wood, then a semi-transparent finish is what you need. They come in a variety of colors and which can be mixed and matched with solid colors to meet your creative need. Expect these finishes to last 3 or more years.
Older decks, outdoor furniture and siding often benefit from the hiding power of solid color stain. These stains penetrated well to provide long lasting protection and stand up to heavy foot traffic. Expect solid color stains to last 5 years on decks and up to 15 years on siding.
Q: Why do I have to stain my deck every year?
A: You don’t. How long a finish last depends on its clarity and how it is applied. The sun’s UV rays penetrate the finish and breakdown the surface of the wood beneath. Darker and more opaque finishes prevent the rays from penetrating and the finishes last longer. Quality clear and wood tone finishes can be expected to last 2-3 years. Semi-transparent finishes (those that have a color but allow the wood grain to show through) will last 3 or more years. Solid color finishes, similar to a painted surface, will last 5 or more years.
Q: I'm confused about using bleach on wood. Should I use it or not?
A: Like other exterior wood care products, chlorine bleach has a function if it is used correctly and carefully. It is the only readily available product that will effectively kill mildew, so, if mildew is present, use the bleach but neutralize it after 5-10 minutes with an acid based product (like Flood's Dekswood) and flush the wood with large amounts of clean water. Neutralization will help prevent damage from the bleach. There are some products which require the use of bleach prior to application to sterilize the wood and to raise the pH of the wood to an acceptable level. The proper use of bleach should be specified on all product labels. Note: Bleach is not a cleaner and it will not remove dirt. When dirt and mildew are present, both a detergent and bleach will be required to do a proper job.
Q: How do varnishes and polyurethane sealants compare to clear wood finishes?
A: Varnishes and polyurethane sealants are clear coatings that protect the wood by forming a continuous film of resin over the wood surface. They are generally only suitable for small surfaces such as doors and outdoor furniture. Unlike a finish, they fail by cracking and peeling and are very difficult to recoat.